Need a little time to try some livin' ~ "A Mile High In Denver," Jimmy Buffett tag:travellerspoint.com,2007-09-07:/blog/?domain=lojo 2009-03-05T16:04:33Z LOJO img/travel-blog-feed.png Time Spent with the Malays tag:travellerspoint.com,2008-05-20:/blog/?domain=lojo&thisblog_entryid=23&entryid=110031 2009-03-05T16:04:33Z 2008-05-20T07:17:26Z I am fully aware of the fact that it has taken me nearly 2 weeks to post on Malaysia. The blog was my connection with the Western hemisphere for so long, and now that I've returned, I've lost my desire to keep up with it. It’s something that cannot be explained. I have tried many times to sit down and, at least, post some photos, but my mind just doesn’t want to cooperate. I've finally convinced the creative side of ... I am fully aware of the fact that it has taken me nearly 2 weeks to post on Malaysia. The blog was my connection with the Western hemisphere for so long, and now that I've returned, I've lost my desire to keep up with it. It’s something that cannot be explained. I have tried many times to sit down and, at least, post some photos, but my mind just doesn’t want to cooperate. I've finally convinced the creative side of my brain (as opposed to the lazy side that I've been engaging for the last 10 days) to be of use and come up with a little something about our travels in Malaysia. Its almost entirely in picture form - which is all anyone really wants to see anyway. Here is a little background information:

We spent time in three major areas - 1) Georgetown, a big city on an island in the northern part of Malaysia, 2) The Cameron Highlands, an elevated get away in the mountains of Malaysia where they do a lot of farming and have several tea plantations, 3) Kuala Lumpur, the bustling capital city.

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I've also gone back even further and inserted some photos on the post about Thai beaches.

From what little information I have received in brief emails, Brody and Adam spent some time in Cambodia at Ankor Wot, and now they are in Vietnam. I can’t tell you the specifics because I, myself, do not know them. Once Brody gets back (on May 30), I'll make sure he fills us all in on his experiences.

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The Trunk of the Elephant tag:travellerspoint.com,2008-05-04:/blog/?domain=lojo&thisblog_entryid=22&entryid=107811 2008-06-18T05:48:02Z 2008-05-04T10:54:38Z Our days in the southern part of Thailand have been fairly uneventful and mostly characterized by a lot of lying around on the beach - which is really all there is to do in this part of the country. After our stay in Bangkok, we flew to Krabi (inter-Asia flights are much cheaper than domestic US flights so we opted to fly for $50 instead of spending 12 hours on a bumpy bus). Krabi was nothing special, and we merely ... Our days in the southern part of Thailand have been fairly uneventful and mostly characterized by a lot of lying around on the beach - which is really all there is to do in this part of the country. After our stay in Bangkok, we flew to Krabi (inter-Asia flights are much cheaper than domestic US flights so we opted to fly for $50 instead of spending 12 hours on a bumpy bus). Krabi was nothing special, and we merely used its convenient location as a starting point for our 10-day beach-hopping journey.

First on our list was Railay beach. Its still on the mainland, but there are no roads there so we had our first experience on a long tail boat, which i think really adds to the experience. We pulled into the mangrove tree lined beach of Railay East and quickly packed over to Railay West where the fie white sand and clear green waters create a picture perfect scene. We actually ended up staying on Tonsai Beach, a secluded backpacker haven north of Railay that is only accessible by scrambling over coral at low tide (a treacherous journey that I have the scars to prove) or by a 30-minute swim around the point (another dangerous trip on which Brody’s lack of swimming skills nearly caused him to succumb to the gods of the sea). We mainly came to this beach because the boys were interested in seeing the limestone cliffs that flank the beaches where rock climbers from around the world come to climb in paradise. We didn’t do any climbing ourselves, but we watched while we ate and played in the water.
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Speaking of eating...I'm saddened to share that I won the competition for the first bout of traveler’s tummy. We all had our money on Adam because he has no qualms about eating anything from anywhere. But alas, the nasty bug found its way into my unsuspecting system. My newfound taste for Thai curries quickly disappeared as a result.

On to less disgusting travel stories, we left Railay for Koh Jam. This island is a bit more low key, although most of the beaches are currently low key since it is the shoulder season. We lounged in hammocks. A lot. From Koh Jam, we took a bigger boat to a bigger island called Koh Lanta. This place is much more touristy and I was excited to finally do a bit of shopping. But the boys successfully found a hotel well out of town. I did, however, win my plea to score an elephant trekking trip while we were on Koh Lanta. There are several tour companies around the country that employ old logging elephants to take tourists on treks through the jungle. I was a little wary of the idea since I know many of these animals don’t always get the treatment they deserve in countries like Thailand, or anywhere for that matter. I was that while the "monkey shows" we're something an animal lover should not attend, the elephant shows were all right. From what I could tell, that’s the truth. I wish we would have gotten to interact with the animals a bit more, but it was a memorable experience to be able to get as close as we did.
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We spent a few days inland in Trang. The only good thing i can say about this places is that there are some delicious late night food stalls there. From Trang, we took a bumbling bys with poor air conditioning (and sealed windows) to PakBara where we met a ferry to Tarutao, one of Thailand’s national parks. This place is supposed to have clean, pristine beaches since its on protected land, but someone, somewhere isn’t doing their job because the beaches on the island turned out to be just as trash ridden as others we'd seen around the country. This lack of a beach clean up crew was something that surprised all of us. Many of Thailand's beaches, both on land and in the water, are very dirty. Snorkeling off the coast will show you just as many beer cans and lost sandals as it will brilliantly colored fish. Its difficult to believe that a country that relies so heavily on tourism would treat their money maker so carelessly. On Koh Lipe, our final Thai island, I actually found a needle and syringe in the sand. Its so sad and discouraging for what’s to come. But don’t think we didn’t enjoy the beaches of Thailand. If you are willing to hike a bit, you can find some more secluded and absolutely amazing beaches on which to while away the afternoon. We were simply taken aback by how the majority of these places are being maintained.
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For now, Adam and Soderberg are still out enjoying the sand and sun on Koh Lipe while Brody and I headed inland to take in a bit more culture. We also hope to get a start on some sights in Malaysia since my departure for home is fast approaching. I had originally planned to stay until the end of May, but the longer I'm gone, the less I want to be here. My heart isn’t where it should be considering I'm traveling around some amazing places and doing things others only dream about. The boys indent to stick it out (although I think they are both a bit homesick as well), but I'll be home on the 9th. You'll be able to find me at the Rio!

Ok, off to enjoy paradise while I still can!

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Eating Our Fill tag:travellerspoint.com,2008-04-25:/blog/?domain=lojo&thisblog_entryid=21&entryid=106589 2008-06-18T15:19:32Z 2008-04-25T08:18:03Z Bangkok is a feast for the senses and within the first few minutes of being on the city’s jam-packed streets, you breach information overload. Alternating smells of delicious spicy curries and rotting trash pass by your nostrils. Colorful, overripe bananas, mangos, and rambutans overflow from roadside stalls. A heavy, humid heat causes sweat to drip from all surfaces of the body. Your ears flood with relentless calls from tuk-tuk drivers and tailors, hounding you for your patronage. And your mouth ... Bangkok is a feast for the senses and within the first few minutes of being on the city’s jam-packed streets, you breach information overload. Alternating smells of delicious spicy curries and rotting trash pass by your nostrils. Colorful, overripe bananas, mangos, and rambutans overflow from roadside stalls. A heavy, humid heat causes sweat to drip from all surfaces of the body. Your ears flood with relentless calls from tuk-tuk drivers and tailors, hounding you for your patronage. And your mouth salivates with all the exotic food possibilities available at late night food stalls. With so much of city to take in, exhaustion sets in quickly, and you long to be relaxing by a beach. Before heading ocean-side, we had to experience a little sensory overload and take in some of the culture the amazing city of Bangkok has to offer.

As mentioned in our last post, we arrived during the new year celebration turned water war – Songkran. In between water throwing sessions, we tried to recuperate and dry out by visiting the Grand Palace, also known as the Temple of the Emerald Buddha because of the “emerald” Buddha statue it houses. This complex was home to the Thai monarchy for nearly 200 years, and although the king’s digs are now elsewhere, these grounds are no less royal.

Before I get too detailed about our trip to the Grand Palace, let me first tell you about our failed attempts at seeing it. The first day, our efforts came up short when we remembered, at the gates, that we were dressed inappropriately. Both men and women are required to wear long pants and sleeved shirts (regardless of weather) when visiting significant religious sites in Thailand. We turned around with hopes to return early the following morning to beat the heat and the crowds, which was a failed effort in itself since it is hot and crowded everywhere, all the time in Bangkok. Dressed in the correct attire, we made our way towards the palace on the second day. A friendly local quickly stopped me. If you’ve ever traveled with me, you’ll know that I’m easily distracted by people making attempts to talk to me or sell me something. The man I happened to talk to this time informed me that because of the new year celebration, the palace was closed for the day. Foiled again! He came to the rescue by recommending a few smaller wots (Buddhist temples) and Buddha statues that are off the beaten path. He helped us grab a tuk-tuk, and gave us some useful information about how much to expect for a ride and what to say if the driver tried to overcharge us, “Pang-Pai!” So, off we went, happy travelers on our way to an un-crowded cultural site. Sometime during our ride, our driver stopped at a silk shop and tried to get us to go in. Being the wise travelers we are, we said, “No, no, no” and demanded to only be taken to the sites we requested. He reluctantly pulled away and took us to our wots. But before too long, he needed gas and dropped us off at a shop where we could “wait in the air conditioning” while he filled up. Our caution momentarily escaped us because we got out and went inside. This establishment was not a silk shop, but it was a gem and jewelry store that was most likely in cahoots with our shady tuk-tuk driver. We took the relief from the heat and wandered around for a while before returning to our sneaky chauffeur. But we did not buy anything, much to the disappointment of the driver who quickly asked, “What did you buy?” upon our return. After getting back to our hostel, we read an interesting piece of information in our trusty Lonely Planet guide. To paraphrase, this warning says, “First time visitors to Bangkok beware of seemingly friendly, well dressed locals who will advise you of the closure of a major tourist attraction and route you elsewhere in their friend’s taxi. The driver will try and take you to silk and jewelry shops since they get a commission off your purchases.” What an interesting welcoming committee we ran into. We should have known better, but I’m convinced our good judgment was a result of jetlag.
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With our guard up, we returned to the Grand Palace for the third time in three days. We saw our buddy the tuk-tuk driver and his friend on the way and they promptly walked in the opposite direction! Thankfully, the old saying is true, as third time was a charm. We walked through the gates with ease. It was maddeningly an unbearably hot, and we were shuffled around in a massive crowd until we found ourselves in front of some of the most amazing architectural structures we’ve ever seen. Each building is ornately decorated with colorful tiles and marble floorings. With the obvious care put into each one, it is difficult to imagine their age. Each building is an attraction, but the tiny Emerald Buddha is the main draw. He only stands about two feet tall, which is much smaller than we were expecting because of the hype. Even more deceiving is his name, “Emerald Buddha,” since he is actually made out of jade. He wears a different, elaborate gold leaf outfit for every season and sits atop an enormous gold altar. He has quite the history of travels between the Thai and Laotian kingdoms, and it is easy to see how despite his size, he is a major pilgrimage for many Buddhists. There were no cameras allowed in the wot, so I can’t show him to you, but trust me when I say that he was quite the compelling site.
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After our successful trip to the Grand Palace, we spent the afternoon waiting for our friend Matt Soderberg to arrive. We all taxied down to Chinatown to find most of the markets closed, but we did score some delicious Chinese food. No one was brave or rich enough to try the shark fin soup, for which the area is known. It costs 3000 Baht a bowl, which is about 3 days budget for us. After Chinatown, we took another taxi to Patpong. This is one of Bangkok’s several red light districts. We’ve heard from other travelers that Patpong’s “Ping-Pong” shows were not to be missed. Sorry, parents, for the explanation you are about to receive, but culture is culture no matter how explicit it may be. Ping-Pong shows involve women placing various objects (eggs, Christmas lights, etc.) in their…particulars. Rest assured that our curiosity quickly died out.
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After such an exhausting few days in the city, we were ready for our departure to Krabi, a city on the southern west coast of Thailand that is a major starting point for the fabulous Thai beaches. Our senses were definitely ready for some R&R by the beach.

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A Crazy Introduction to Thailand tag:travellerspoint.com,2008-04-17:/blog/?domain=lojo&thisblog_entryid=20&entryid=105716 2008-06-18T05:42:24Z 2008-04-18T02:39:04Z It’s a bit delayed, but I am fulfilling my promise to update everyone on our safe arrival to Bangkok. We made it in one piece, but of course, not without some troubles. Brody was denied his boarding pass from our layover city (Melbourne, Australia) into Bangkok. The ticketing agents told him it was because he didn't have departure tickets. None of us did, so we aren’t sure why Brody was flagged. It’s a silly rule for a country that you ... It’s a bit delayed, but I am fulfilling my promise to update everyone on our safe arrival to Bangkok. We made it in one piece, but of course, not without some troubles. Brody was denied his boarding pass from our layover city (Melbourne, Australia) into Bangkok. The ticketing agents told him it was because he didn't have departure tickets. None of us did, so we aren’t sure why Brody was flagged. It’s a silly rule for a country that you can leave by land - which is what our plans are. Adam and I were informed that even though we had our boarding passes, we would most likely be turned away by the Thai customs officials and sent back to Australia. To avoid this, we all purchased very expensive but fully refundable tickets to Melbourne just so we could get into Thailand. The funny part of the story is that we weren't asked about return tickets once we got to the Bangkok airport. In fact, we weren’t asked much of anything and flew through customs. We thought it was better to be safe than sorry though.

We found a cab into backpacker central - KhoSan Road. This place is absolutely crazy all hours of the day. To add to the craziness, we happened to arrive in the in middle of the Thai New Year called Songkran. During this multi-day holiday, the locals throw water on each other and smear a white, chalky paste on anything that will stand still. This, and the fact that our hotel "Sawasdee Inn" has several sister hotels similarly named, made it incredibly difficult to find where we had booked a room. 45 minutes and 5 hotels later, we found our Sawasdee and fell asleep shortly after (but not before hitting the streets for some yummy Thai food since we were starving. Apparently, Jetstar Airlines does not feed their passengers. Even on 9-hour flights.)
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The next day we found to be even more chaotic than the first. We walked around the city and were just drenched with water guns and buckets of ice water. Our white faces made us prime targets and if we weren’t being soaked, someone was rubbing white goo on our faces. It was just insane, but it gave us a fantastic introduction to the country. No time for culture shock.
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Farewell Aotearoa tag:travellerspoint.com,2008-04-12:/blog/?domain=lojo&thisblog_entryid=19&entryid=105045 2008-06-18T05:40:22Z 2008-04-13T01:04:38Z We've described so much about the physical beauty of NZ, but not much about the people. I've been compiling our thoughts on New Zealand for a while now. In fact, I have journal entries from late December full of ideas for such a post. For one lame reason or another, I never actually organized our thoughts and published them for all the world to read. Actually, it now seems more fitting to save this specific post for last, as it ... We've described so much about the physical beauty of NZ, but not much about the people. I've been compiling our thoughts on New Zealand for a while now. In fact, I have journal entries from late December full of ideas for such a post. For one lame reason or another, I never actually organized our thoughts and published them for all the world to read. Actually, it now seems more fitting to save this specific post for last, as it has become a more complete collection of our observations. So finally, on the night before our departure (Thailand here we come!), here is a random collection of our thoughts on Kiwi culture:

1. Kiwis are a laid back crowd.
Unless they're drinking (in which case, they become very loud and slightly obnoxious, but then again, who doesn't), Kiwis are carefree. They are always on vacation. Their government even punishes businesses with a fine if they open on a public holiday. Even in their daily excursions, kiwis portray a very "I'm on vacation" attitude. They have time to stop for coffee and breakfast on their way to work. They meet their friends for an extended lunch. And they're usually never in a hurry to get anywhere (unless they're behind the wheel, where they all develop serious cases of lead food and road rage.) They are extremely laid back parents (as far as the western world is concerned). Their kids are always barefoot and frequently unattended. It reminds me of how the pre-Nintendo generations grew up. They play outside. I think this forced creative, adventurous play has made kiwis more thrill seeking and quick witted than their American counterparts. Discipline also seems more old-fashioned. Kids fight their own fights. A few months ago, Brody and I watched two young boys (about 6 and 8 years old) duke it out while their father looked on, waiting to see who won. The same kids were later climbing around (barefoot) on towering rocks near the oceans edge. A new age American parent would never let their children partake in such dangerous activities.

2. Kiwis have weird driving rules.
Not only did we have to adjust to driving on the left side of the road (resulting in many switches of the wipers when the blinker was intended), but we also had to adapt to their funny rules. Most notably, you can't turn left on a red light like you can turn right on red at home. Also, if you're waiting to turn tight, you have the right of way over people turning left from the opposite direction, even though you're crossing their line of traffic. Think about it, you'll realize the confusion that ensues.

3. Kiwis still haven't gotten the memo about mullets.
They're everywhere. And rat tails too.

4. Kiwis eat strange versions of familiar foods.
Since arriving in NZ, we've come across the following types of potato chips (called "crisps" here): blue cheese and peppercorn steak, honey soy chicken, garlic yogurt and feta cheese, and salsa cream cheese. Mostly, they taste like chips with ramen noodle powder on top. Kiwis also don’t eat cherry or apple pies. They eat meat pies. It is the same crust, only there is cheese and steak inside. They love Corona. And they put sweet chili sauce or aioli (garlic mayonnaise - its delicious) on everything.

5. Kiwi toilets have two buttons.
One, the half flush, is for the lesser of your dirty deeds. Apparently, it uses less water, but we're convinced it uses just as much as any toilet at home.

6. Kiwis don't play football, baseball, or basketball.
They play rugby, cricket, and netball (a weak version of basketball where the players cannot dribble, jump, or run with the ball). It caught me off guard to watch kids playing in the park. I thought they just didn't know the rules to football...until I realized they were playing rugby.

7. Kiwis export their good food.
Apples, lamb, cheese - all the best batches are exported overseas. This, obviously, brings the New Zealand economy more money. But the strange thing is that they still sell the cast offs at high prices. We thought we would be in cheese and lamb chop heaven, but we haven’t eaten much of either because it’s so expensive and the quality is worse than what we might get in the states.

8. Kiwi radio is horrendous.
If you think American Top 40 stations are bad, you'll change your mind after one week with New Zealand radio. It’s a strange mix of English, Australian, and American pop songs. And they're all terrible and way [b]overplayed.

9. Kiwis are few and far between
There are only 4 million people in New Zealand, and 1.5 million live in the Auckland area. On top of that, there are nearly 2 million tourists (mostly German and Japanese) in the country each year. For this reason, it makes it really likely that you'll run into some one you know, even if you don't live here. We met a Canadian in Fiji named Brandon. He was in our hostel room. Then Brandon was on our flight to New Zealand. Then we ran into Brandon in Auckland, Wellington, and Queenstown. These are three large cities that are at least 9 hours apart from one another. That’s like running into someone in LA, San Francisco, and Seattle.

10. Kiwis rarely see their own country.
Despite its small size (about the same square acreage as Colorado, but stretched out), Kiwis don’t travel much within their own country. A lot of them travel overseas though. Many go on their OE (Overseas Experience) after college.

11. Kiwis think they know US politics.
I can't complain too much, because I couldn't tell you anything about New Zealand politics before I got here. To give them credit, they know a bit about what's going on in the current US political realm. However, most of their information is a little inaccurate. When they hear we're from the states, they always ask, "Who are you voting for, Hillary or that Obama guy?" They think the election is going on right now, and they haven't quite grasped that the presidency will not come down to those two candidates. They don't know any republican candidates. And we even met a Kiwi woman who thought Clinton was a he. She was a little behind the times.

Overall, I'd say Brody and I both enjoyed our trip to New Zealand. I sure hope he enjoyed it since its something he's wanted to do since he was 16. We saw some amazingly beautiful countryside and met a bunch of interesting people from around the world. If my thoughts have sounded at all negative in the last few posts, I apologize. Although we truly had a good time, I think we may have become a bit jaded by how much money its cost us to travel here. On top of that, we've just grown restless (again) to see something different. And boy will we be in for a culture shock at this time tomorrow night. We get into Bangkok during the middle of the Thai New Year celebration. We will check in as soon as possible to let you all know that we've made it and we're soaking up all the sun and craziness Bangkok has to offer!

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Its Just Like Riding a Bike... tag:travellerspoint.com,2008-04-10:/blog/?domain=lojo&thisblog_entryid=18&entryid=104845 2008-06-18T05:38:13Z 2008-04-11T01:04:26Z …Picking up a wine glass, that is, especially after all our adventures in beer drinking. We've been in the country for 3 1/2 months and have done minimal wine tastings. So, we decided to take a little tour of the vineyards of the Marlborough area on our way through Blenheim. This medium sized city is just south of the ferry crossing port, Picton, and really holds no appeal for travelers, other than all things wine related. [ ... …Picking up a wine glass, that is, especially after all our adventures in beer drinking. We've been in the country for 3 1/2 months and have done minimal wine tastings. So, we decided to take a little tour of the vineyards of the Marlborough area on our way through Blenheim. This medium sized city is just south of the ferry crossing port, Picton, and really holds no appeal for travelers, other than all things wine related.
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New Zealand is a relatively new player on the wine scene - they aren't quite as well known as Napa Valley or France, but they are now making impressive chardonnays and sauvignon blancs. These types of grapes grow well in the cool, dry weather that’s found in most of New Zealand. Specifically, these regions include Cromwell, Marlborough, and Napier (North Island) - each far away from the rain drenched west coast. Not many reds are made in these regions, but a few decent Pinot Noirs (according to the boys) do exist.

On a recommendation from a friend's parents, we took the tour via bike (much safer and greener than by car). This proved to be a fantastic way to get from Winery A to Winery B despite the gale force winds that frequently increased our pedaling efforts while simultaneously decreasing our speed. We visited about 8 cellar doors. Our favorites turned out to be Framingham and Cloudy Bay. Both produce fantastic wines that are unfortunately well out of our backpacker budget, but are definitely worthy of promotion to our friends and family.

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Although we didn't buy any wine, we all feel as if our appreciation for and knowledge of good wines has impressively increased as a result of our tour!

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Killing time tag:travellerspoint.com,2008-04-07:/blog/?domain=lojo&thisblog_entryid=17&entryid=104391 2008-06-18T05:36:46Z 2008-04-07T22:41:30Z I feel like killing time has become one of my stronger talents since arriving in New Zealand. To some, it might appear to be relaxing, but to us, its killing time. And it’s dreadfully boring. We lay around in parks waiting to check into hostels. We hide in movie theaters waiting for the rain to stop. We sprawl out in cafes waiting for buses. We wander the streets, waiting, waiting, and waiting. We are currently twiddling our thumbs in Christchurch, ... I feel like killing time has become one of my stronger talents since arriving in New Zealand. To some, it might appear to be relaxing, but to us, its killing time. And it’s dreadfully boring. We lay around in parks waiting to check into hostels. We hide in movie theaters waiting for the rain to stop. We sprawl out in cafes waiting for buses. We wander the streets, waiting, waiting, and waiting. We are currently twiddling our thumbs in Christchurch, waiting for our flight to Bangkok, which doesn’t leave for 6 more days. We wish we would have thought ahead enough to check into moving up our departure. Ah, c'est la vie. There are worse places to be stuck!

Our travels have been beer filled since we left Wanaka for the second time (we had to make a quick stop to pick up final paychecks). We drove up the west coast past the previously visited Fox/Franz Joseph glaciers and Hokitika. We continued on to Greymouth - the largest settlement on the west coast. We stayed in a funky little hostel (yay for a night in a bed!) and took a tour around the Montieth's brewery. It’s a tiny little business that produces an impressive amount of beer for having only 9 full-time employees. The tour guide informed us that they hired temporary help to pack crates for $17. The boys were a little sad about missing out on that opportunity, but they felt better once we got to the hour-long open bar/tasting session. The next day, we continued on to Westport, where we stopped by another brewery. No tour this time. But we did get to fill up a couple of our 2-liter water bottles (who needs water?) with beer. For $7. Total. We thought this was a fantastic stroke of good luck.

Before stopping in Westport, we hit up the Pancake Rocks and blowholes in Punakaiki. The Pancake Rocks started forming about 30 million years ago. The layers in the rocks (that give them their characteristic stacks-of-pancakes shape) are dead marine creatures layered with mud and clay. Some time ago, an earthquake pushed the seabed up above the surface of the water and voila! Pancake Rocks! When the conditions are right, water rushes into caverns under the rocks and water squirts out through the blowholes (in a whale-like manner). We tried to time our arrival with high tide - when the show is rumored to be at its best - but the ocean wasn't working with us that day. The sight was still pretty amazing. The rocks, themselves, are interesting creations. But we saw no blowing water.
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We then headed back up to Nelson for the beer fest we had been looking forward to for months. We were excited until we found out that tickets were expensive and didn’t include the price of beer. So, we ended up staying put at the bar we went to buy tickets from. I'm sure we spent just as much as we would have at the festival, but at least we didn’t have to stand around in the rain all day. Another bonus was that this was a fantastic little pub with the most taps we've seen at one bar in New Zealand.

The next day we headed up to beautiful Abel Tasman Park (where Brody and I had our kayaking adventure) to start the Abel Tasman Track - one of the "great walks" in New Zealand. The entire hike follows the coastline through the park, crossing low-tide estuaries and beaches, then winding up into the rain forest. It can take between 3-5 days to complete the entire track, but we chose a shorter, 2-day portion. The weather wasn’t agreeing with our plans, and it rained. The beaches aren’t nearly as picture-perfect when it rains. However, the weather did clear up for us the next day and we had wonderful views.
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The next few days were spent hanging out in Golden Bay, which is full of artsy little shops and quirky microbreweries. We drove up to Farewell Spit - the northernmost point on the south island - and took a walk to the beach where we were presently surprised by some sand dunes.
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Since then, we've tried to slow up our arrival in Christchurch with a few mini-adventures (more on this next time), but we still got here with 7 days to spare. Today, the boys are on a side trip up Aurthur's Pass. I chose to stay behind to get a little break from the testosterone I've been surrounded by lately. I'll check back in with photos from their trip soon!

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The Demise of Guano tag:travellerspoint.com,2008-03-25:/blog/?domain=lojo&thisblog_entryid=16&entryid=102637 2008-06-18T05:34:04Z 2008-03-26T04:32:59Z Sadly, our time in Guano has come to an unfortunate end. We planed on selling her (for slightly less than the buying price), but on our way back to Queenstown last week to meet up with Brody’s parents, she decided she was tired of traveling the winding roads of New Zealand, and died just before her 300,000 birthday. She couldn’t have picked a better final resting place, as she blew a head gasket in the middle of wine country. Thankfully, ... Sadly, our time in Guano has come to an unfortunate end. We planed on selling her (for slightly less than the buying price), but on our way back to Queenstown last week to meet up with Brody’s parents, she decided she was tired of traveling the winding roads of New Zealand, and died just before her 300,000 birthday. She couldn’t have picked a better final resting place, as she blew a head gasket in the middle of wine country. Thankfully, she gave us a few last breaths as we crept her back into town to find out that her hospital bills were far to expensive for our tastes. As a registered organ donor, we gave Guano’s parts to a local mechanic in hopes of helping other camper vans in need.

This event has left us less than stranded. Thankfully, we have Adam, his tent, and his car to get us around NZ until April 14th. It has been an interesting and extremely tight squeeze into Adam’s little Subaru, but I’m sure it will make for some good bonding time in the weeks to come. We even tried to give little Guano a break from her daily stresses as we checked into our first hotel of the trip (that’s right, I said hotel, not hostel). Brody surprised me for our 4-year anniversary (! – on both 4 years, and Brody’s surprise) and rented a hotel room so we could sleep in a real bed, in a real room, with its own shower and TV! It was a wonderful break from the cramped quarters of a van. We both agreed that Wanaka has a totally different feel when you're in a room with a view.
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Being with Brody’s parents the following weekend was also a much-needed experience. It was wonderful to be around parents again, who make the decisions for you and spoil you. We were treated to several yummy meals, and they even took us with them on the Shotover Jet (a jet boat ride up the Shotover Canyon in Queenstown). I wish I had photos to show you because it was fantastic. I think it’s the closest we’ll get to a real “adventure” activity in NZ. Brody’s mom was all about the jet boat ride and had her hands in the air the whole time like we were on a roller coaster.

We just finished up our last week in Wanaka – celebrating St. Patrick’s Day and squeezing in a few hikes before we left the area (maybe forever!). Last Thursday, I took a hike all by my lonesome up Mt. Roy. I’ve had the hike recommended to me, but I failed to look up a description of the hike until after I suffered through all the pain and misery it could dole out (Lonely Planet explains the hike as a trail for fit folks in search of a good view, that climbs nearly 5,000 feet in 2.5 miles). It was a hot, shadeless trail that went straight up the side of a mountain. The view was, indeed, fabulous, but I can’t figure out if the walk was worth it. A few days later (after my blisters and sore quads recovered), the boys and I headed up another recommended path to Diamond Lake for another great view of the town and lake. This was also no easy walk in the woods. I think Adam correctly described it was, “Death on a trail” as we scurried down steep, rocky switchbacks. We’ve come to realize that while the NZ Dept. of Conservation always overestimates the amount of time it takes to complete a hike, they always down play the degree of difficulty. We made the most of our trip and decided to take a bunch of silly photos at the top.
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Just after leaving Wanaka, we headed down to Milford Sound, which we found out isn’t actually a sound (carved by rivers), but is, instead, a fjord (carved by glaciers). I’m not sure who named the area Milford Sound, especially since its located in “Fjordland.” Regardless, it was probably the best place we’ve been so far. All three of us are agreed on that fact. The day was absolutely perfect, especially since the fjord is located in one of the rainiest places on earth, and we were able to see the tops of the surrounding craggy peaks. I’m sure no day on Milford Sound is ugly, since when the rain comes, waterfalls pour down the sides of the mountains. There is no soil to absorb the water, so the falls start about 30 minutes after the rain, and cascade out of every little nook until an hour or so after the rain stops. I’m sure this sight is far more common than the one we witnessed, since on average, this area gets 7 meters of rain a year. The mountains themselves are extremely rugged and absolutely covered in lush rainforest, with the exception of an occasional bare spot resulting from a tree avalanche. They just explode out of the Sound (since the majority of NZ is located along tectonic plates, all the mountains are super steep since they grow at insane rates). The mountains in Milford grow about as fast as your fingernails, and the area experiences about 7 earthquakes a day as a result of the constantly moving ground. Our big red boat took us through the sound to the Tasman Sea, stopping off at an underwater observatory where we could get an idea of what sea life is like under the surface. Because of the freshwater that pours into the sound every time it rains, and the fact that the water doesn’t get mixed up because its sheltered from the huge waves and swells the rest of the ocean experiences, there is a layer of freshwater on top of the salt water. This fresh water filters out the sunlight, making coral and other creatures think they are deeper than they are. Therefore, they grow in unusually shallow water. Milford was a very interesting place – I felt like a little kid on a school trip trying to take notes and remember facts.
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An Explanation tag:travellerspoint.com,2008-03-12:/blog/?domain=lojo&thisblog_entryid=15&entryid=100921 2008-06-18T05:32:46Z 2008-03-13T04:55:49Z Ok, so I felt a little guilty after dropping that line about leaving for Thailand in a month and providing no additional explanation. The boys are busy climbing (Adam) and working (Brody), so I figured I'd pop in and make a little post. As previously mentioned, New Zealand is an expensive place to travel. Its like taking off work for 5 months to travel around LA. No joke. We tried to go out for pizza the other night and found ... Ok, so I felt a little guilty after dropping that line about leaving for Thailand in a month and providing no additional explanation. The boys are busy climbing (Adam) and working (Brody), so I figured I'd pop in and make a little post.

As previously mentioned, New Zealand is an expensive place to travel. Its like taking off work for 5 months to travel around LA. No joke. We tried to go out for pizza the other night and found a large pepperoni for $32 NZD. That’s about $27 USD. Clothes are expensive. I tried to go jeans shopping since the weather got colder a lot earlier than we had planned - I couldn’t find anything under $200. Drinks are expensive. Food is expensive. Shoes are expensive. And the country has really capitalized on the Lord of the Rings publicity and upped the prices of almost all the tourist activities. Bungee Jumping is $100. Jet Boating is $100. Hiking is $100. Watching penguins is $40. Each gas tank is $80. Needless to say, our savings haven’t lasted as long as we planned. So, we worked longer than we had planned and that cut into our Australia time. We didn’t want to see Australia on limited money and time budgets, so we decided to skip it for the time being (I know! I'm sorry JES! You'll have to take me back and give me a personal tour!)

Instead, we bought tickets into Bangkok, Thailand for April 14. We have plans to see Thailand, Laos, Vietnam, Cambodia, and Malaysia. All in around 4 weeks. We aren’t sure of our exact plans. We're still trying to coordinate with our friend Herbie who is currently in SE Asia. And we're still a bit overwhelmed by the SE Asia travel guide. I'll be sure to let you know when time gets closer.

Ok, I hope that clears up a few, "What the...." moments you may have had from the last post. I have to run now - time to get some vaccinations!

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Gettin Some Grub, Huhu style tag:travellerspoint.com,2008-03-11:/blog/?domain=lojo&thisblog_entryid=14&entryid=100759 2008-06-18T05:31:25Z 2008-03-12T07:12:51Z Another weekend, another coastal trip for us hard working tourists. Adam took off from his literally, nearly backbreaking work at the vineyards of the Otago region to join us. Brody and I tried to warn him of the hazards of vineyard/orchard work, but he claimed to love psychical labor and was itching to be outside. Poor, silly Adam. The weather has been crap (we just recovered from a week long preview of the winter weather to come) and Adam's body ... Another weekend, another coastal trip for us hard working tourists.

Adam took off from his literally, nearly backbreaking work at the vineyards of the Otago region to join us. Brody and I tried to warn him of the hazards of vineyard/orchard work, but he claimed to love psychical labor and was itching to be outside. Poor, silly Adam. The weather has been crap (we just recovered from a week long preview of the winter weather to come) and Adam's body hurt pretty bad after his first day. He actually resigned from his 5-day stint at the vineyards just yesterday. Tomorrow he starts making beds and cleaning rooms at a local hostel. I hear this job also carries some hazardous work - a fellow CU grad we met here claims to have gotten tendonitis from scrubbing.

Anyhow, we all took a break to head up the west coast this time, towards the popular Wild Foods Festival in Hokitikia. We left Guano behind and took our turn at camping in Adam's tent, "George Clinton" (because "he's got the funk" - the tent smells terrible, especially with the boys in it). The tent itself is a little ghetto - it looks like something boy scouts on a budget wouldn’t camp in. It leaks and has no real frame. One top of that, Brody and I have no sleeping bags, so we had to resort to using a duvet Colin's parents gave us (Thanks Bettina and Brian!). We were ashamed to take our blankets out of the car at the camp ground while everyone else had their snazzy sleeping bags, so we had to wait until after dark to set up camp.

On our way to the festival we stopped by Fox and Franz Joseph glaciers. They’re both extremely interesting sights, since they're some of the world's only glaciers to exist so close to the ocean. They're only 20 kilometers inland. Furthermore, they exist in the middle of a rainforest (the west coast of the south island gets about 6 meters of rain a year!). Both glaciers are also among some of the fastest moving in the world - they move about 2 meters a day, which makes them a bit unstable to walk on since crevasses pop up in new places all the time. The day we were there, a large block of ice about the size of a car was in the middle of the outflow river. Our guide told us it wasn’t there the day before. And the two CU grads we met here were hiking around Fox glacier about a month ago when an even larger block fell off the glacier as they were standing there, sending chunks and splinters of ice flying. Just in 2003, a jökulhlaup (a glacial lake outburst flood) took place at Franz Joseph that changed the appearance of the lower half of the glacier and the course of the river. Despite the dangers, we all felt relatively safe joining a tour group that took us through the glacier valley and up on the ice. It was only a bit unnerving to hear ice creaking and cracking as we strapped on our crampons at the base of the great icy mountain. Our guide was a nutty Aussie with a mullet who made the trip interesting with his confusing explanations of the geological make up of the glacier (he tried to compare it to a Mars Bar) and his strange word usage, "Feel free to ask any queries."
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We made it to the festival the next day. I love festivals. Ohio made me addicted to them, and I usually go to get a good eat, so I'm not sure where my interest in this festival was, since I'm not an adventurous eater. I suppose I wanted to check out all the nasty things everyone else was going to eat. I broke out of my eating shell a bit and tried worm sushi, kangaroo, crocodile, and even some sheep testicle sandwich. Brody was a bit more daring and added in a huhu grub. For those of you who don’t know, here is the 411: A huhu grub is a giant maggot (about the size of your finger) that can be found in rotten wood. They chop the wood and pull out the treats right in front of you and then - get this - you pay to eat them. The trick is, however, that you have to chomp them quickly or they bite your tongue with their pinchers. Several people at the festival said they tasted like peanut butter, but from the looks of Brody and Adam's faces, they just tasted like crap. Adam also tried grasshopper on toast.
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Even if you weren’t sampling the strange foods at the festival (other delicacies included lamb's tail, stag heart sandwich, and horse intestines) the attendees were entertaining enough. Many people dressed up - to no apparent theme - and proceeded to get ridiculously drunk. As Adam so graciously put it, "This place turned into a royal shit show." Kiwis don’t mess around when they drink. Before long, they were wrestling each other in the rain and mud. That was about the time our bellies had enough nasty in them and we headed back to the campsite. We stopped at the beach along the way and Adam threw some rocks. Imagine. We did some random sightseeing along the rainy (any this is no understatement) coast and headed back home.
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Brody's parents come this weekend, and I'm sad that it’s not my parents, but I'm excited to see some more familiar faces. We have about 4 more weeks in NZ - 2 more in Wanaka - before we all 3 head to Thailand (more about that later!)

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Reunited and it Feels so Good tag:travellerspoint.com,2008-03-10:/blog/?domain=lojo&thisblog_entryid=13&entryid=100457 2008-06-18T05:28:50Z 2008-03-10T08:07:45Z As I mentioned a while ago, we recently met up with our friend Adam. Brody and I took a break from the stresses of dishwashing and coffee making to head back to the east coast and check out the city of Dunedin and the surrounding areas. It was nice to see someone from home. Although, as I write this, I'm not so sure I'm excited for the boys to be back together). Adam brings comedic relief and an excuse for ... As I mentioned a while ago, we recently met up with our friend Adam. Brody and I took a break from the stresses of dishwashing and coffee making to head back to the east coast and check out the city of Dunedin and the surrounding areas. It was nice to see someone from home. Although, as I write this, I'm not so sure I'm excited for the boys to be back together). Adam brings comedic relief and an excuse for Brody to act like he is in college again.

We started the weekend by attempting to check out some yellow-eyed penguins - supposedly the most rare penguins in the world. They proved to be extremely rare (or maybe our patience was a bit thin), and we had no sightings. Our poor luck continued as we headed further south in search of our campground. As we got closer, we saw an area that appeared to be on fire. The emergency vehicles and helicopters with water buckets were a dead give away. The area turned out to be our campsite.

We had a break in our run of bad luck the next morning as we checked out the Moraki Boulders. The boys were skeptic about taking a detour to see some rocks (yes, Brody the geologist had to be convinced, but I think they were jaded from our previous foiled plans). The boulders ended up being really cool - they're absolutely huge and their existence is a mystery. Scientists know they started in the soil, and as the cliffside eroded, they boulders proved to be more resistant to the elements and appeared on the beach. Brody was excited and dazzled us with some geology talk.
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Later that afternoon, we made it to the city of Dunedin. We checked out the campus of the local university. The boys and I have agreed that we can’t appreciate college campuses that don’t have matching buildings. The architecture of CU has made us spoiled. We also went to the Cadbury Chocolate factory, where our bad luck returned. The production floor was closed for cleaning so we had to take a shortened tour. The upside is that we paid a discounted price. The downside is that we saw all the lame elements of the tour. The boys didn’t hide their disappointment, and I heard complaints all night. We watched a video about the factory and we were promised a surprise at the end of the walking portion of the tour. It turns out that the only part of the tour was to see a giant chocolate fountain that sprays chocolate all over your clothes. Our free samples were even disappointing, as they handed out the reject chocolate bars that don’t sell well. After the chocolate factory, we headed up town to the Speights brewery, which turned out to be far more interesting and rewarding. Speights is the Budweiser or Coors of New Zealand, and I have to give props to the Kiwis and claim that their domestic, mass produced beers are much better than ours. We got to sample all the Speights beers - which almost negated the crapiness of the Cadbury tour. Almost.
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The next day, we checked out Baldwin Street - the world’s steepest street according to the book of world records. All steep hills feel the same to my quads, but apparently this one is the biggest, badest one. We also headed out to the Otago peninsula to check out some Albatross (only saw one) and penguins (saw none), but the scenery was pretty. We were further disappointed with the petrified forest and Niagara Falls. Check out the photos below to get a sense of what we felt. Only we drove a few hours to see them. I think some one is sitting around the tourist map shop thinking up silly things just to see if we're huge suckers and we'll drive 2 hours to check it out. We were suckers.
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Overall the weekend was a nice break. We saw some beautiful parts of the country, and brought home a little souvenir named Adam. Check back soon for our latest adventure at the Wild Foods Festival...Yum!
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A Constant State of Boulder tag:travellerspoint.com,2008-02-27:/blog/?domain=lojo&thisblog_entryid=12&entryid=98929 2008-06-17T18:57:48Z 2008-02-28T07:10:28Z Upon arriving in New Zealand, we quickly realized that Kiwis were very health and environment conscious. This wasn’t a difficult thing to get used to after spending many years in Boulder. I appreciated their countless recycle bins and thought nothing of the organic, vegetarian, and gluten-free call outs on every restaurant and cafe menu. However, the town of Wanaka pushes that Boulder likeness even further. And at times, I feel like we haven’t really left home. Only now, all the ... Upon arriving in New Zealand, we quickly realized that Kiwis were very health and environment conscious. This wasn’t a difficult thing to get used to after spending many years in Boulder. I appreciated their countless recycle bins and thought nothing of the organic, vegetarian, and gluten-free call outs on every restaurant and cafe menu. However, the town of Wanaka pushes that Boulder likeness even further. And at times, I feel like we haven’t really left home. Only now, all the Boulderites have funny accents and have traded in their Subaru Outbacks for an unfamiliar Japanese import.

Wanaka is an aesthetically pleasing little town at the foot of the mountains, just like Boulder. You can be at countless trailheads or ski areas in less than an hour. Each trailhead parking lot is packed with bike rack equipped vehicles, and each ski resort floods with trendy skiers and boarders during the winter months. Goggle tan lines and eccentric matching ski outfits are a common sight at the après ski hotspots that serve tasty, local microbrews. One difference I've been able to extract is that the ski areas have no trees, and therefore, no runs like Coloradoans are used to. The resorts resemble the back bowls of Vail - treeless and steep.

At the cafe where I work, every other customer modifies his or her order with soy, skim, gluten-free, or vegetarian options. The hip, hot mommies come in for coffee/play dates with their jogger strollers. They're all wearing snazzy sneakers and work out clothes (that are expensive, no doubt), as if they've just been out on the trails.

Almost all the shops in town are locally owned and operated. There was a big fight against the corporate giants when the New World grocery store moved in. I can only imagine the feelings of resentment around town were similar to those felt towards the Home Depot when it moved into to challenge Boulder’s independently owned McGuckin Hardware. It has been rumored that as pay back, New World charges outrageous prices, and that it is the most expensive grocery store in the country. Lucky for us, we eat many free meals at work. There is one other corporate-run business in town: a Subway. But that’s the closest you'll get to fast food around here.

There are cyclists everywhere. If you've ever driven the streets of Boulder (and now, the surrounding areas, seeing as how the triathlon trend is spreading like wildfire), you'll understand the craziness that ensues when half the vehicles on the road have only two wheels. In addition to road bikes, every one owns and regularly uses a pair of running shoes. I often find myself feeling guilty or lazy since I seem to be the only resident (temporary or long term) who is not running. I have looked into buying some shoes (they were thrown out of the "take" pile in our mad packing rush) but sneakers are expensive here. A decent pair would cost about $200. At least. And what would biking and running be without swimming? There is consistently an overwhelming group of hard bodies at the pool every morning. And they're all fast. I try and stay out of their lanes, especially since I'm still having a rough time adjusting to circle swimming on the left side of the lane. My flip turns wont cooperate. I'm obviously not an ambi-turner.

We absolutely love it in Wanaka, although we find it strange that we traveled 10,000 miles to end up staying in a place that turned out to be so much like home. Interestingly enough, we aren’t alone in our travel preferences. Brody has met two other CU graduates at his job, and they've introduced us to two more Buffalo alumni that have taken up residence in Wanaka. I suppose its "shoulder to shoulder" across the world.

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Put on Your Yamaka, Its Time to See Pictures of Wanaka tag:travellerspoint.com,2008-02-19:/blog/?domain=lojo&thisblog_entryid=11&entryid=97134 2008-06-18T05:24:31Z 2008-02-19T08:01:43Z This heading might be the closest we'll ever get to seeing a post from Brody. It was his (much appreciated) creative contribution to the website. We haven’t been up to much since we've been in Wanaka. It is a sleepy little town that doesn’t provide much to do for the extended stay traveler. We've exhausted our cultural possibilities. We went to see a movie at an artsy local theatre that has yanked out all the seats and replaced them with couches. ... This heading might be the closest we'll ever get to seeing a post from Brody. It was his (much appreciated) creative contribution to the website.

We haven’t been up to much since we've been in Wanaka. It is a sleepy little town that doesn’t provide much to do for the extended stay traveler. We've exhausted our cultural possibilities. We went to see a movie at an artsy local theatre that has yanked out all the seats and replaced them with couches. Comfy, but apparently the couches require an increased ticket price, seeing as how we paid about $13 each to get in. We checked out the air museum (I couldn’t bring myself to pay the $10 to get in when I lived nearly next door to the Air Force museum for 2 years and never went for free). We checked out the local brewery. And...that is about it. We're left with hiking and lake-related activities, which there seems to be no lack of. It’s just tough to find time to do it when I work days, and Brody works nights.

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The whole area is pretty and full of fantastic scenery (I'm wondering how many times I'll say pretty, beautiful, gorgeous, and fantastic in this blog...but its all necessary to even begin to explain the countryside). The mountains are amazing because they shoot up thousands of feet out of flat land. It’s as if you took away the entire Front Range and just saw the Rocky Mountains appear in the middle of Kansas. And you can drive down any dirt road and happen upon gorges, waterfalls, vineyards, etc., etc. All these attractions would have brochures and tourist shops at home in the states, but here, you're lucky if you see a little road-side sign hinting that something of interest might be down the road. We drive around a lot looking for nice places to stay for the night. Its not a difficult task, although, most nights we stay closer to town near a dried up river bed (I'm glad they're in a drought) so we don’t have to drive far to get to work.

Speaking of, Brody is less than liking his job. I think he'd rather be thinning apples, which says a lot about how much he hates washing dishes. I don’t mind my job at the cafe, I really like most of the people I work with and the environment is fun. I get to taste all the baked goods and gossip all day. Rough stuff. We hope to get next Monday, Tuesday, and Wednesday off so we can temporarily fall back into the role of tourists and get down to the Dunedin area.

I've posted a few more photos to make up for how much I've been slacking over the last week or so. I had to figure out how to compress the images so they would fit on the website since we get a meager monthly allowance. Picture_636.jpgPicture_639.jpgPicture_640.jpgPicture_645.jpgPicture_647.jpgPicture_666.jpgPicture_669.jpgPicture_732.jpgPicture_688.jpgPicture_695.jpg

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Pizza and ice cream tag:travellerspoint.com,2008-02-09:/blog/?domain=lojo&thisblog_entryid=10&entryid=95521 2008-06-18T05:21:23Z 2008-02-10T05:34:39Z As it turns out, we aren't going to be working in Queenstown after all. We headed about 90 minutes up the road to Wanaka - a little town situated right on Lake Wanaka. It’s still insanely pretty, but it is smaller and more quaint. Brody wasn’t digging Queenstown too much, and refused to stop referring to it as Vail. If you've ever been to Vail, you'll attest to the fact that its a gorgeous place, and a fantastic get away, ... As it turns out, we aren't going to be working in Queenstown after all. We headed about 90 minutes up the road to Wanaka - a little town situated right on Lake Wanaka. It’s still insanely pretty, but it is smaller and more quaint. Brody wasn’t digging Queenstown too much, and refused to stop referring to it as Vail. If you've ever been to Vail, you'll attest to the fact that its a gorgeous place, and a fantastic get away, but not the kind of town in which a couple of minimum wage earning travelers, living out of their van would want to settle. Within the first few days, we both found jobs. Brody is working at a nice restaurant washing dishes. The restaurant is called Finchy's. What are the odds? He's also working at a place called DiVinci's Pizzeria. I'm hoping we can get some good leftovers. I have a job at a cafe/ice creamery. It’s a really cute little place, and I'm excited about all the goodies I'll get to try. I already have my eye on the white-chocolate raspberry ice cream. We are committed until the last week of March (most places around here were very against hiring anyone short-term, which confuses us, since we cant figure out how much training it takes to get someone up to speed on washing dishes or scooping ice cream). But, we're pretty centrally located to the remaining activities on our list, so we will be able to get out for some weekend trips.

I also took my first dip in a Kiwi swimming pool. As some (maybe most) of you know, I hurt my back around Thanksgiving, so its been a while since I've done any swimming. It is a great pool, 5 minutes from where we're staying (aka, parking our van) so hopefully I'll get back into shape. The Tim-Tams have not been so nice to me. There is an open water swim here in a couple weeks, and hopefully, I'll be up for it by then. The first couple thousand meters were painful.

I'll be back with some more posts about our new home in a few days.

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All over the place tag:travellerspoint.com,2008-02-04:/blog/?domain=lojo&thisblog_entryid=9&entryid=94762 2008-06-18T05:18:18Z 2008-02-05T05:40:02Z As promised, I’m posting a more detailed update. This one even has photos (lots of photos!) so I can get you all caught up on our travels. I briefly mentioned in our last post that we left our apple thinning jobs. We never intended to stay too long at that job. We loved the area and found the position easily and figured, “Why not?” The work was tough and the sun was hot and we were itching to see more ... As promised, I’m posting a more detailed update. This one even has photos (lots of photos!) so I can get you all caught up on our travels.

I briefly mentioned in our last post that we left our apple thinning jobs. We never intended to stay too long at that job. We loved the area and found the position easily and figured, “Why not?” The work was tough and the sun was hot and we were itching to see more of the country. Most of the group we were working with (the Estonians, Belgians, etc.) we’re all leaving soon anyway since there would be a break in work before harvest season. Our last day really reaffirmed the fact that we are not cut out for manual labor – we were crawling on our hands and knees pinning huge, white tarps to metal posts. The tarps are put in place a couple weeks before harvest to redden the backside of the apples. The sun reflects off the tarps and increases the temperature by about 20 degrees. It’s hot and sweaty work. But just before we left, we had a fun bonfire with the group we were staying with. I taught everyone how to make s’mores with New Zealand replacements for graham crackers and jet-puff marshmallows. I was a little afraid that the pink marshmallows would affect the taste, and the others would all think we were crazy Americans with poor taste in food, but the s’mores we’re just as tasty here as they are at home.
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We will be back in the area in a few months for the New Zealand Marchfest, so hopefully we can get a good feed on yummy apples!

After leaving, we went to Nelson Lakes National Park. Its really a beautiful place that doesn’t get as many tourists because it’s a bit off the main path. We have both been very surprised by how beach-oriented the locals are. We didn’t realize the beaches here were so beautiful and that many tourists would flock there. It was nice to be away from the crowds and back to the mountains. The only downfall to the place is the sandflies. Brody and I had heard about the wretched creatures, and how terrible they are all over New Zealand, but we really hadn’t run into them at all. That’s most likely because every sandfly in all of New Zealand just might have taken up residence in this park. They were out in force. We didn’t hang by the shore for long. The next morning, we went for a fantastic hike that provided some amazing views of the park.
After leaving the park, we drove back towards the east coast, to Kaikoura, stopping in Hamner Springs for the night. This town apparently had some nice geothermal pools, but the price (and the hot sun) kept us from checking them out. That’s another thing, we cannot get over how expensive New Zealand is. The locals have really capitalized on the tourism industry here and many of the activities are ridiculously expensive. We hike A LOT to offset some of the paid for activities that we want to partake in.
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Such activities include the swimming with the dolphins tour we went on in Kaikoura. This tour was absolutely fantastic and I highly, highly recommend it to anyone who might be in the area. It’s expensive, but worth every penny. A little boat takes you out in search of a local pod of dusky dolphins. Because of the formation of the continental shelf in this region, there is a huge up swelling of food from the bottom of the ocean. Hence, lots of dolphins, sperm whales, orca whales, albatross, seals, and other sea creatures. There is a great chance that you’ll see something. Also, the dusky dolphins are extremely playful. The group we found were jumping and doing somersaults everywhere. There were literally hundreds of them. You jump in and they swim all around you, and you can hear them talking and watch them jumping. Its amazing. Brody (and many others on the trip) were not as thrilled with the boat ride as it was a small boat and the sea was a bit rough. But he still thoroughly enjoyed the trip.
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After Kaikoura, we went to Christchurch (not before stopping at our first New Zealand microbrewery – “Brew Moon” – another must see if you’re in the area). We didn’t spend long in the big city since we knew we would be back with Adam, but we enjoyed seeing some of the major sites on our way through. We toured the main district, stopping by the Christchurch Cathedral, Dyslexia Museum (Brody is convinced he’s dyslexic), Canterbury Museum, and Botanical gardens. While on the coast, we also made our way out to Akaroa, a little village with a French vibe to it. Way back when the Europeans were making their way to New Zealand, the French landed in Akaroa, the English in Christchurch, and the Scottish in Dunedin. These three towns still are heavily influenced by their founders. We had some fantastic fudge there (thanks for the recommendation Jenny) and some delicious locally made cheese. The Kraft style cheese here that you get at the grocery store is terrible, and the homemade cheese is fantastic. I think we’re spoiled and cursed to spend lots of money on cheese the rest of the time we’re here.
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Our path towards Queenstown, where we are now, took us back through the middle of the country through Lake Tekapo and Mt. Cook . Lake Tekapo was amazingly blue – particles in the water from glaciers rubbing together make the water reflect the sun in this electric blue color. The photos don’t do it justice.
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The weather wasn’t fantastic near mount cook, so we only saw the bottom half of the mountain during the two days we spent there. We will most definitely head back up there since its only a Summit County’s drive away from where we are staying (we keep justifying everything in terms of Colorado driving times, since NZ is roughly the size of Colorado.) We did get to go on a great hike to the base of a glacier lake. We had to take several bridges over the glacier run-off, full of glacial till (look at all I’m learning from traveling with a geologist).
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For now, we are in Queenstown. No photos yet of the area since we’ve been spending most of our time looking for jobs. It reminds me a lot of the ski towns in Colorado. It’s cute and quirky, and full of delicious, fancy restaurants and expensive shopping. Brody keeps calling it Vail because its got a bit of an uppity feel to it, but I don’t care. It’s beautiful.

Wish us good luck in finding jobs – we applied to about 8 places yesterday, so I hope something good comes of it. If not, we’ll be back in the fields!

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On the road again tag:travellerspoint.com,2008-02-01:/blog/?domain=lojo&thisblog_entryid=8&entryid=94353 2008-06-18T05:15:55Z 2008-02-02T02:58:32Z This post is short and lacks photos. I just wanted to let everyone know that we are still alive. I'll post more photos later when we aren’t in such a hurry! We quit our jobs for the second time in two months! After 2 1/2 weeks of apple thinning, we decided we had enough. Our initial plans were to head further North from Nelson to the Abel Tasman park (where we had our kayaking adventure) and do some hiking and ... This post is short and lacks photos. I just wanted to let everyone know that we are still alive. I'll post more photos later when we aren’t in such a hurry!

We quit our jobs for the second time in two months! After 2 1/2 weeks of apple thinning, we decided we had enough. Our initial plans were to head further North from Nelson to the Abel Tasman park (where we had our kayaking adventure) and do some hiking and sight-seeing up there, but a beer festival and a long-haired boy named Adam caused us to change our plans. At the end of March, the city of Nelson is hosting their first annual "Marchfest" which they claim will be similar to Germany's (and the bars of America) Oktoberfest. They'll brew specialty beers just for the event, and there will be lots of food and entertainment. We couldn’t pass up a chance to get some good beer, so we decided that we will come back for the festival. Also, our friend Adam gets into Auckland in about a week and has plans to drive south and meet us. We figured, the more we do before he gets here, the longer we will have to wait for him to catch up. So, for this additional reason, we decided to move on and see the rest of the area when we return.

Since we left, we've been to the Nelson Lakes National Park and done some hiking. We drove to the east coast, stopping in Hamner Springs before arriving in Kaikoura where we did some more hiking and swimming with the dolphins (A-MAZING! More on this in later posts). Then we went south to Christchurch and the Banks Peninsula where we visited the little town of Akaroa. We are now on our way back towards the west coast towards Queenstown where we hope to get another job. We are thinking this will be more of an indoor adventure, but if need be, we'll try our cherry and apricot picking abilities.

I used to get so mad at Herbie and Kristina for waiting so long in between their posts and now I'm averaging about a week in between updates! I promise I'll post again soon with some fantastic photos!

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Adventures in Kayaking tag:travellerspoint.com,2008-01-20:/blog/?domain=lojo&thisblog_entryid=7&entryid=92751 2008-06-18T05:15:04Z 2008-01-21T04:19:36Z We took a break from apple thinning and went back to being tourists this past weekend. Just north of Nelson is Abel Tasman park, and is home to some fantastic beaches, kayaking hotspots, and beautiful hiking trails. Our boss at the orchard, Berne (who is hilariously full of entertaining stories), has a touring sea kayak that he let us borrow for the weekend. We took the big banana boat up to the park on Saturday, getting to the beach just ... We took a break from apple thinning and went back to being tourists this past weekend. Just north of Nelson is Abel Tasman park, and is home to some fantastic beaches, kayaking hotspots, and beautiful hiking trails. Our boss at the orchard, Berne (who is hilariously full of entertaining stories), has a touring sea kayak that he let us borrow for the weekend. We took the big banana boat up to the park on Saturday, getting to the beach just in time for low tide. If you haven’t been to this area, you wont understand how disappointing that is. When the tides here go out, they really go out. We ended up having to carry the 45-kilo kayak and 20 kilos of our gear out to the water. It turned into a lot of pushing and pulling across the sand.

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Brody has been dying to sea kayak since we've been here, and I think it's save to say our efforts this weekend fully satisfied his desires. The first hour or two on the water were fantastic - just cruising around the area and getting acquainted with the boat. By mid-afternoon, the winds kicked up and added some difficulty to our attempts at paddling. The sea got fiercely choppy as we headed out of the sheltered cove we were in. So we decided to take a break before heading into what the locals call "The Mad Mile," which is a stretch of exposed coast; no sandy beaches to swim to or take refuge on when the going gets tough. And boy did the tough get going. After our snack break, we drove right into some pretty scary swells out in the point. Berne told us the kayaks are often referred to as divorce kayaks, and our little situation made us understand why. There was quite a bit of screaming going on while we were tossed around by 2-3 meter swells. If you topple over in these kayaks, you cant really get back in. You have to swim to the beach and re-launch. But remember, in the Mad Mile, there are no beaches so you are out of luck if you fall out of the boat. We finally made it far enough around to a little cove called Te Pukatea. It was beautiful there, so our luck wasn't too bad. We also found out that we could hike to our campsite from the beach in about 15 minutes, so we didn't have to get back in the boat that day. We just loaded up our dry bags and tent and headed off for our site in Anchorage.

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The next morning, the seas were perfect (the calm, green water we had been seeing in the brochures) so we headed further up the coast in search of a river that could be accessed at high tide. We saw a little seal along the way, but he didn't want to play with us, much to my disappointment. We looked and looked for the right bay (our map wasn't waterproof, so we were going by memory) and finally exhausted ourselves and took a rest on a beach. I'm glad no one else was on the beach because it was an extremely ungraceful landing. When you come into the shore, the from person has to pull off their spray skirt, anchor their paddle, and jump out as fast as possible to pull the boat up and out of the waves. This beach was a bit steep and the waves were a little big, and I ended up being knocked over by the boat. It was a disaster. But the good news is that we happened to crash land on the beach where the river was located! We paddled up for a bit, relieved to have some waveless water. The waves gave us a run for our money back into the ocean though.

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Our way back to the harbor was peaceful and fairly uneventful. I'm pretty sure we overshot what our arms could handle by a lot, since we were resting every ten stokes on the way back. We also ended up coming in at low tide. More pushing and pulling our way back to the shore while all the chartered tours got rides back in tractor-trailers. We commented on the fact that we were willing to haul all our own gear now, while we're young and poor, but if we have to do it again in the future, we'll pay the extra cash to have someone do it for us!

That’s all for now! One more week of apple thinning and then we're back to roaming the land!

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Orange you glad you aren't picking apples? tag:travellerspoint.com,2008-01-14:/blog/?domain=lojo&thisblog_entryid=6&entryid=91999 2008-06-18T05:08:45Z 2008-01-15T04:05:10Z It’s been a while since our last posting, but we have, indeed, left the wonderful Finch residence on Peka Peka Beach and made it to the south island. Colin's parents were amazing and they fed us well. It was nice to sleep in a real bed and eat real food. Guano has a gas stove so we can branch out from sandwiches from time to time. But she has no fridge so we haven't had cheese, eggs, yogurt, meat, etc. ... It’s been a while since our last posting, but we have, indeed, left the wonderful Finch residence on Peka Peka Beach and made it to the south island. Colin's parents were amazing and they fed us well. It was nice to sleep in a real bed and eat real food. Guano has a gas stove so we can branch out from sandwiches from time to time. But she has no fridge so we haven't had cheese, eggs, yogurt, meat, etc. for a while. We didn’t do much of anything while we were in the Wellington area because the infamous rain (that we've heard so much about, but had not seen until this point in our trip) rolled in and stayed for a few days. We made it to the city one day by train. We went to the Te Papa museum, which was a multi-billion dollar project that was just completed within the last decade. It was a pretty interesting museum, with lots of hands on activities and historical information about NZ. It was nice to get a little background, since our Lonely Planet guidebook tells us little in that sense. The best part about the museum is that it’s free! Free is always a good work for backpackers. We also had a lamb burger - VERY tasty. I didn’t think I would like lamb (I've always convinced myself I don't like it). Other than that, our stay was pretty mellow. We drank lots of coffee and ate lots of cheese (both are pretty big here).

On Monday, January 7th, we picked up Guano from the mechanics and we were told that there was no problem. Apparently, with the weather being cold, the mechanic couldn't get the car to squeak. The upside is that since there was no problem, there was no charge. We still aren't convinced since it squeaked all the way from the ferry to Nelson, which is where we are now. The ferry ride was fun since the clouds lifted a bit and we were able to see some of the surroundings. The Marlborough Fjords were very beautiful and it was interesting to see the strait after reading the biography of Lynne Cox, an open water, long distance swimmer, who made it across the strait about 20 years ago. I can't imagine swimming it. The water is absolutely freezing.

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After getting into Picton, the city on the south side of Cook Strait, we drove west to Nelson where there are many orchards and vineyards. A litte further north of where we are is the Abel Tasman National Park - which is supposed to be amazing. We have plans to head up there this weekend with a kayak our new boss has graciously agreed to lend us for the cheap price of nothing. The town of Nelson, itself, is a pretty little city right on the beach. Well, when I think about it, there aren't many big cities in New Zealand that aren't by the beach. And there aren't many cities that aren't pretty. The landscape is extremely varied - beach, forest, volcano, farm, mountain... and I keep thinking that if you took the prettiest parts of many of the states (California, Washington, Colorado,) and put them all together, it would be what New Zealand looks like. The best of everything.

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We easily found work, landing an apple-thinning job with the first call we made. It's relatively easy, but we're on our feet all day, in the BRUTAL New Zealand sun (much worse than the sun in Colorado), and you start to lose it after a few hours. Our i-pods have been lifesavers. Basically, apple thinning is what's done before the harvest season to weed out the "bad apples." We go through the trees and take off apples that are too small, or bruised, etc. It is mind numbingly boring. At night we are staying at the orchard's accommodation. There are several other travelers staying with us, and we make up quite the unique bunch. There are a couple of crazy Estonian guys, a sweet Scottish girl, a spunky Irish girl, a quiet Belgian couple, a Kiwi couple, and us. The company also owns a kiwi orchard and some boysenberry patches (which are currently in harvest season, so I hope we can get in some good berry eating). The apples we're picking are Temptations and Braeburns, so if you see any in the stores in a couple months, you'll know they were picked with care. Harvest doesn't start until mid-February and then it takes the apples 6 weeks to get to the states (!) so I guess we might actually be back in time to eat our own apples.

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We should be here for a few weeks (at least until the end of January) so we'll make sure and check in on and off until then!

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Me so hangi! tag:travellerspoint.com,2008-01-04:/blog/?domain=lojo&thisblog_entryid=5&entryid=90854 2008-06-18T05:01:07Z 2008-01-05T04:34:52Z Good news! The van is officially (and perhaps, temporarily) up and running. While we were in the Coromandel Peninsula, we had a hose to the radiator replaced and Guano (the affectionate name we have given our van) is doing well as far as over heating goes. She's been getting a little tired and creaky at times so we are now in the process of having a ball joint replaced. We are at Colin's parents house north of Wellington and they ... Good news! The van is officially (and perhaps, temporarily) up and running. While we were in the Coromandel Peninsula, we had a hose to the radiator replaced and Guano (the affectionate name we have given our van) is doing well as far as over heating goes. She's been getting a little tired and creaky at times so we are now in the process of having a ball joint replaced. We are at Colin's parents house north of Wellington and they have recommended a good mechanic. We hope to have her fixed and ready to go by January 8th. We've been at the Finches since the 3rd. They have been so fantastic and it’s been nice to stay in one place for a while. It’s also been fun to see how the great Colin Finch became what he is today!

Since we last posted, we made our way down the peninsula into Rotorua, a big geothermal hotspot. From the moment you enter the area, there is an ever-present sulfur smell, much like in Yellowstone. The last big eruption there was in 1886, when Mt Tarawera blew its top. There are countless mineral pools, geysers, and bubbling mud pits all around the area. This is the world’s newest geo-thermal ecosystem (the only one to be created during written history). Very exciting stuff for a geology major. We went to Waimangu Volcanic Valley, one of the local parks, to checkout some highlights. It looked like a bunch of smelly, bubbling water to me, but Brody was all about it. One interesting feature was Inferno Crater. The limestone walls and piercing blue water were pretty amazing to see.

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Rotorua is also the adventure capital of NZ. For a small fortune, tourists can ski dive, bungee jump, white water raft, black water raft (basically tubing or boating through caves), sledge (similar to boogie boarding down rivers), zorb (fly down a hill in a big, inflated ball), schweeb, luge, jet boat around waterfalls, etc. Its ridiculous how many crazy activities they have come up with.

The area has a lot of Maori influence. For New Year's Eve, we went to a Hangi concert/dinner. We both agreed that the whole thing was way over commercialized, but it was interesting to see part of their culture. The European settlers have basically done the same thing to the Maoris in New Zealand that they did to the Native Americans in North America - took their land and destroyed their forests. Fortunately, the Maori culture has hung on a lot better. They took us on a tour of part of their land and told us about different plants, and their significance/uses in their culture. We saw examples of dances and traditions they have. The girls had some pretty powerful pipes. They were amazing. Then we ate a traditional Maori dinner - a hangi. They wrap up meat and vegetables and put them underground and build a fire on top. It was delicious, and much needed after our peanut butter sandwiches.

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After Rotorua, we went to Taupo. This is New Zealand’s biggest lake (I think I've heard, the biggest lake in the southern hemisphere...maybe), and it covers a huge caldera (a big crater created by a volcanic eruption). This HUGE blast took place about 26,500 years ago. We saw a graphic that shows this blast just dwarfing all volcanic eruptions that have taken place in recent history (St. Helens, Krakatoa, Pinatubo, etc.) Its a beautiful region, but we didn’t spend much time there because it was so hopping with kiwi travelers (I swear, these people NEVER work).

We went on to Tongariro National Park where we did the Tongariro crossing - a 18km, one day hike. It was amazing. In the park, there are 3 peaks - Mt Ruapheu (9176 ft), Mt. Ngauruhoe (7503 feet) and Mt Tongariro (6453 feet). These don’t sound tall compared to the Colorado 14ers, but their rise is more dramatic because the surrounding area is at a lower elevation. This is the area where the Mt. Doom scenes for Lord of the Rings were filmed.

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The climb was pretty steep going up, and had a long decent, which was torture on the knees. We didn’t get quite to the summit. It was another 2 hours, and we figured the 6.5 hours for the crossing was enough for our out of shape legs. I wore my Lance Armstrong shirt to motivate me, and I'm pretty sure I got some nasty looks from some Europeans.

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For now we are just relaxing with Colin’s parents and getting our van fixed. We will make sure to post some more photos before we leave and while we have free Internet. We hope everyone had a good holiday season and you're all enjoying the cold weather!

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We Spoke Too Soon tag:travellerspoint.com,2007-12-29:/blog/?domain=lojo&thisblog_entryid=4&entryid=90226 2008-06-18T04:54:48Z 2007-12-30T06:58:11Z I suppose I opened my mouth too early in Fiji - bragging about our lack of travel troubles. It seems like ever since we got to New Zealand we have been stuck in the middle of a bad luck streak. Our hostels have been like a scene from Animal House (they are full of young people who just want to party). Our busses have broken down. I've been sick. Brody's been sunburned and stung by a bee. And to top ... I suppose I opened my mouth too early in Fiji - bragging about our lack of travel troubles. It seems like ever since we got to New Zealand we have been stuck in the middle of a bad luck streak. Our hostels have been like a scene from Animal House (they are full of young people who just want to party). Our busses have broken down. I've been sick. Brody's been sunburned and stung by a bee. And to top it off, we seemed to have found the lemons of all lemons in the camper van we purchased (stay tuned for more details).
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New Zealand, itself, is beautiful. We headed up north for Christmas to the Bay of Islands and stayed in a little beach town called Paihia. Christmas day was a little dreary so we couldn’t do much around town. We spent most of the day reading at our hostel while everyone else was in party mode (we tried to go to bed to escape the noise, but found a roommate and his visitor already in the room). But the next day we took a ferry across the bay and got in a good hike in quaint little Russell.
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The summit of the "hill" we climbed had some amazing views of the electric blue bay. Later that day, we took some bikes around the area. We found a waterfall on the map we were given, and made an attempt to get to it. Nowhere on the map was the warning, "not to scale," and it took a bit longer than we expected. There were quite a few big climbs and some unpaved roads, and our little cruiser bikes with no gears were not properly equipped to handle the conditions. We walked a lot. Which was especially unnerving when we tried a different way back and got stuck on a highway.
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We didn’t stay in the Bay of Islands area as long as we initially thought because Brody was antsy to get back to Auckland to find a campervan. After the crazy partying type that we ran across in the hostels, and the simple fact that its miserable to sleep with 8 other people who are all on different schedules, we decided it was time to venture out on our own. For those of you who were previously unaware, NZ is full of renovated campervans that tourists use to get around the country. The backseats are usually replaced by beds and gas stoves. Once you drive the van around, you sell it to other backpackers. We happened to find the most deceitful backpacker and the crummiest van.

I'm pretty convinced he fed the van magic pills before we bought it because it seemed to run well on our test drive. We slept on our decision to buy and went back in the morning to get the vehicle checked at a garage. However, we couldn’t find the garage. Against our better judgement, we bought it. About 15 minutes down the road, it severely overheated on us. We had it towed to Papakura - a suburb of south Auckland and quite possibly one of the most unappealing towns to be stranded in. The mechanics told us there was a problem with the radiator, and that we would have to wait until Jan 7th to see a specialist (Kiwis take massive vacations this time of year. They have about 15 public holidays where they are required by the government to shut down business. And entry-level jobs come with 4 weeks of paid vacation. So they seem to always be on holiday). The mechanic patched whatever hose was leaking coolant and told us not to drive in the middle of the day. We thought, "Hey, that just might work. We will drive for a few hours each night, sleep, and then see the sights during the day." Much to our disappointment, the patch didn’t last long and we were stuck again. We made it about 5 hours down the road to Whitanga in the Coromandel Peninsula. The car overheated on our way to a local beach that was only 14km out of town. The distance was deceiving in a busted vehicle since it took us almost 2 hours to get there. We had to stop every 3 minutes of driving to let the van cool down for 20 minutes.
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Once we got to the beach, we enjoyed ourselves. The beach is called Hot Water Beach because there is a geothermal hotspot under the sand. During low tide, you can dig holes in the sand and make your own little spa pools. The pools got pretty hot - there were some we couldn’t stand to put our feet in. The waves at the beach were also amazing. I wish we knew how to surf or body board. The water is pretty cold, though, so we would also need to scrounge up some wetsuits. Its bearable once you get in, but only for a bit. I'm guessing it’s comparable to the ocean temperature in San Francisco.
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When the sun went down, we limped the van into the next town, Tairua, which is where we are now. We still have to wait around for a mechanic to open up, but at least we’re in a nicer area where we can dig for mussels on the beach and swim in the ocean.
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I'm actually not surprised that the van overheats or makes creaking noises around corners because Kiwis drive their cars fast and hard. This is especially disconcerting in the winding, hilly roads in this area. I consider Brody and I to be decent mountain drivers, but we don’t go anywhere NEAR as fast as the Kiwis want us to go. I can’t imagine what a "flatlander" would experience here.

We will update more on our travels later. Internet is expensive in these beach towns!

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Bula! tag:travellerspoint.com,2007-12-23:/blog/?domain=lojo&thisblog_entryid=3&entryid=89763 2008-06-18T04:19:11Z 2007-12-23T20:22:08Z Our trip has started out relatively well. We haven’t lost any bags or ran into other travel-related trouble. We got into Fiji on Wednesday morning (Tuesday afternoon in Colorado). After flying into Nadi, on the main island of Viti Levu, we caught a bus to our hostel - which was really more of a resort with bunk beds. Apparently, there was a British reality television show filmed there about a year ago, and the crew came in and made many ... Our trip has started out relatively well. We haven’t lost any bags or ran into other travel-related trouble. We got into Fiji on Wednesday morning (Tuesday afternoon in Colorado). After flying into Nadi, on the main island of Viti Levu, we caught a bus to our hostel - which was really more of a resort with bunk beds. Apparently, there was a British reality television show filmed there about a year ago, and the crew came in and made many upgrades. The beaches weren’t fantastic (like the beaches you see in the photos of Fiji) since we were on the side of the island with the coral reef, but a beach is a beach. There were dozens of hammocks that came in handy for reading and snoozing. There were also many activities put together by the hostel - horse back riding at low tide, coconut jewelry making, hiking in the jungle, volleyball, sea kayaking, etc. It felt very much like summer camp. If anyone heads to Fiji, we both recommend staying here. It’s cheap, clean, and fun.
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We met a lot of really nice people who were staying there. Every one seemed to be just wrapping up their travels in New Zealand and Australia or just heading down there. One couple from north of Auckland offered to have us come to their house for New Years Eve. We planned to be up north anyway, so I think we might go visit them. It will be nice to have some plans for the holidays in another country.

The Fijian people we also extremely nice. They're such a happy group of people - always smiling and yelling "Bula!" to everyone they come across. Brody met a girl on the bus from Nadi named Swastika. Caught us off guard, but apparently its a common name in Fiji. She was very informative and told us to try many different things while we were in the country - Kava (a traditional drink in the pacific islands, made from roots. we never had any, but we heard that its non-alcoholic, tastes like muddy water, and makes your tongue go numb). She also recommended something that sounded like Lowvel. They mix meat, veggies, and seasonings and cook it underground. We didn't get a chance to try this either, but we've been told that there is something similar in NZ called a hangi. Kiwi's often eat hangi on Christmas, and we've heard you can get it at road-side stands. I think we might try it out!

I have to run for now - we're getting kicked out of our hostel in about 45 minutes. We'll post more soon!

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Finally! tag:travellerspoint.com,2007-12-16:/blog/?domain=lojo&thisblog_entryid=2&entryid=89179 2008-06-16T20:50:26Z 2007-12-16T19:38:15Z After two crazy weeks in Colorado, we are finally about to get on an airplane. Brody and I were talking yesterday about the fact that neither one of us are really that excited for our trip. Recent feelings have only been of exhaustion and anxiety since we had many loose ends to tie up before leaving. I assume excitement will set in when we get to the airport. If not then, it will most definitely se ... christmas_in_colorado.jpgAfter two crazy weeks in Colorado, we are finally about to get on an airplane. Brody and I were talking yesterday about the fact that neither one of us are really that excited for our trip. Recent feelings have only been of exhaustion and anxiety since we had many loose ends to tie up before leaving. I assume excitement will set in when we get to the airport. If not then, it will most definitely set in when we settle into the sand with a book and umbrella-clad drink. We will be in Fiji for a couple days before heading to Auckland. The flight to Fiji is about 11 hours (Leaving LAX at 10pm Monday and arriving in Fiji at 5am on Wednesday. No December 18, 2007 for us). After Fiji, the flight to NZ is about 3 more hours. Our first night in NZ will be spent in an Auckland hostel before we head north to the tip of the north island to an area called the Bay of Islands. It sounds like a fabulous way to spend Christmas.

We will check in sometime soon, to let you know we made it - but if we dont get a chance before the big day - Merry Christmas!

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A Brief Introduction tag:travellerspoint.com,2007-09-07:/blog/?domain=lojo&thisblog_entryid=1&entryid=78134 2008-06-16T20:29:38Z 2007-09-07T18:42:05Z Incase you haven't heard and this blog has caught you by surprise, Brody and I are taking an extended trip to the south pacific. It was a tough decision to leave our jobs, home, and puppy, but traveling has been in the back of our minds for the last few years. Since graduating from college, we've watched many of our best friends travel the globe while we were so crudely thrown into the real world and forced to suffer though ... Incase you haven't heard and this blog has caught you by surprise, Brody and I are taking an extended trip to the south pacific. It was a tough decision to leave our jobs, home, and puppy, but traveling has been in the back of our minds for the last few years. Since graduating from college, we've watched many of our best friends travel the globe while we were so crudely thrown into the real world and forced to suffer though mid-western summers, winters, fast food restaurants, and rabid Ohio State fans. We quickly realized that our hearts belonged outside the corn-filled Miami Valley, and en route back to our beloved Rocky Mountains, we thought we’d take a 5 month detour through New Zealand, Australia, and South East Asia.

The opportunity to travel often passes by many people, so we thought we would grab hold while we could. We have no mortgage, no car payments, and no kids, so it seems like the perfect time. We’ve both done some traveling, but never anything to this extent. Thankfully, New Zealand and Australia seem like good starter countries for the beginner backpacker. Maybe someday we can graduate to Herbie and Kristina’s level of commitment (these are two friends of ours who have already done the touristy backpacker scene, and they’re now in Pisco, Peru helping clean up the aftermath of a huge earthquake that leveled the city in August 2007. Here is their travelblog if you’re interested in hearing about their experiences: http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog/hancocjb/jandksworld/tpod.html).

Don't judge us quite yet. Our travels aren't entirely selfish, as we do have good intentions to contribute to the communities in which we will be living. We are just operating on a completely different level than Herbie and Kristina.

We have Working Holiday visas, which is a great program New Zealand offers to travelers under the age of 30. Basically, we can stay there up to a year and do temporary, seasonal-type work for the country - heard sheep, pick apples, tend bar at wineries, etc. These visas will give us a chance to get involved with the people of New Zealand and their culture and help pad our wallets so we aren't too incredibly broke when we return to the states.

After a few months in New Zealand, we hope to head north to Australia for about a month, where I hope I can catch the World's Masters swim meet in Perth in April. The possibility of this will largely depend on whether or not I can stay in swimming shape, but I figured if I was in Australia during the time of the meet, I might as well try to get there.

After Australia, we will be on to SE Asia. We have no concrete plan, so I'm not sure how long or when we will be in each country before moving on. We will, however, be back by Memorial Day 2008 so I can see Bradley graduate!

As for the details of our departure, we are officially out of the country on December 17. We have a 4 day stop-over in Fiji before actually arriving in Auckland, New Zealand. Yes, this means we will miss Christmas, but tickets nearly double after the holidays. I'm a little sad about this - for those of you who really know me, you can attest to my freakish love for Christmas. However, when I think about being on a beach in Fiji, I feel a little bit better. Once we get to New Zealand, we aren't 100% sure what we're going to do - but as Brody keeps saying, "Figuring it out will be half the fun." The thought of not having a plan (I am my mother's daughter) makes me very anxious so I try not to think about it. We are most likely spending Christmas with a friend’s parents. My friend Colin went to college with me and he is from Wellington, New Zealand. Well, he spent a lot of his childhood in the states, but he, and his accent, claim that he is a Kiwi.

I hope this is enough information to satisfy your questions for the time being. And perhaps motivate you to look into buying tickets to come visit us overseas. No one came to visit us in Ohio, so maybe New Zealand will have more appeal.

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